📌 What You'll Find Here
I landed in Buenos Aires three months ago, expecting chaos. Instead, I found a city buzzing with a weird mix of hope and desperation. Everyone's asking the same question: Is Argentina's economy actually improving? The official numbers paint one picture—but the streets tell another. Let me walk you through what I saw, what the data says, and where the cracks are.
The Big Picture: Numbers vs. Street Reality
On paper, things look brighter than they did a year ago. The IMF just approved another tranche of the Extended Fund Facility, and the primary fiscal surplus (finally!) turned positive. But when you talk to a taxi driver in Palermo or a grocer in Once, they'll roll their eyes.
I sat down with an economist at Universidad de Buenos Aires who told me off the record: “We're seeing technical improvements, but ask me again in six months if the reforms stick.” That hesitation sums up the mood.
Inflation: The Monster That Won't Quit
Monthly inflation: from 25% to single digits?
When Javier Milei took office, monthly inflation was a staggering 25.5%. Fast forward to recent months, it's dropped to around 8-10%. Sounds huge, right? But here's the catch—prices haven't gone down; they've just stopped rising as fast. A latte that cost 1,500 pesos last year now costs 2,800. Your salary? It might have gone up 50%—but only if you're lucky.
Check out the trajectory (all data from INDEC and private estimates):
| Period | Monthly Inflation Rate | Annual Inflation (projected) |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-Milei (peak) | 25.5% | 211% |
| Early reforms | 15% | ~180% |
| Current (latest month) | ~8.5% | ~130% |
Don't celebrate yet. Core inflation (excluding regulated items) is stickier. The removal of price controls means utilities and transport shot up 300% in some cases. I personally saw a bus fare jump from 80 to 350 pesos overnight. That's the kind of shock that makes people forget about macro wins.
Milei's Shock Therapy: What Actually Changed
Devaluation, deregulation, and a chainsaw
Milei's playbook is straight out of a libertarian textbook: slash public spending, devalue the peso, eliminate subsidies, and open up markets. Here's what hit the ground:
- Public sector layoffs: 50,000 government jobs cut. Efficiency? Yes. But also a lot of suddenly unemployed voters.
- End of fuel and transport subsidies: Petrol prices tripled. I paid 1,200 pesos to fill a taxi tank—five months ago it was 400.
- Currency devaluation: Official peso went from 400 to 850 per USD overnight. The gap with the blue (parallel) rate narrowed, but trust in the peso remains low.
- Deregulation of rents: Rents in Buenos Aires jumped 40% in two months. My Airbnb host told me he raised his monthly rate from 800 to 1,400 USD—and still has a waiting list.
I walked past a protest in Plaza de Mayo—teachers, doctors, retirees. They weren't faking it. One woman told me: “My pension used to buy food for three weeks. Now it barely covers one.” That's the other side of the ledger.
Poverty & Employment: Who's Winning, Who's Losing
Poverty rate: still north of 40%
Official poverty ticked down from 45% to 41% in the last quarter—thanks to slowing inflation and some social programs. But extreme poverty (unable to buy basic food) actually rose to 12%. The improvement is concentrated among formal workers who got wage adjustments. The informal sector (half the workforce) is getting crushed.
I visited a soup kitchen in La Matanza. The line stretched two blocks. They told me demand doubled since Milei took office. “We used to serve 200 meals a day. Now it's 400.” That's not a recovery story.
Employment is a mixed bag. Construction is booming—partly because of the “blanqueo” (amnesty for undeclared cash) that fueled real estate. But retail and manufacturing are flat. The unemployment rate stayed around 7.2%, but underemployment (people working fewer hours than they want) hit 30%. That's the silent crisis.
Debt & Forex Reserves: Still on the Edge
Net reserves remain negative
Argentina owes the IMF about $42 billion. The Central Bank's gross reserves are around $28 billion, but net reserves (after swaps and deposits) are still in the red—roughly -$7 billion. The country can barely pay its import bills. I saw factories in Córdoba struggling to get raw materials because there's no foreign currency.
Milei's solution: dollarize the economy. He's talked about it endlessly. But even he admits it's a long shot. For now, the official strategy is to hold the exchange rate via a crawling peg (2% monthly devaluation) and pray for an IMF deal that brings fresh dollars. The World Bank and IDB have chipped in, but it's a drop in the ocean.
I chatted with a currency trader (cueva) in Microcentro. He told me: “People still hoard dollars. The moment the government loses control, we'll see a run. The economy is a tightrope.”
Frequently Asked Questions
This article was fact-checked using data from INDEC, IMF country reports, and the Central Bank of Argentina. Personal observations are from my recent stay in Buenos Aires and Córdoba.
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